Emerson Resort and Spa. (Photo courtesy of the Emerson.)
The Catskill Mountain gnomes who Rip Van Winkle encountered were fond of bowling and magical brews. These days they’re hanging out in hot tubs and getting massages after dining in style…of course, still while imbibing magical Catskill brews.
Winter’s the perfect time in the Catskills to indulge yourself in both active and therapeutic recreation. You’ll find luxurious Catskills escapes come in many guises. I was fortunate to spend nights at the serene Emerson Resort and Spa and the funky-chic Roxbury Motel. Each is family friendly yet also a sophisticated anomaly in this charming old Dutch colonial haven.
The burbling Esopus River and East Branch Delaware River and rounded mountains are extraordinarily calming. The entire Ulster and Delaware county region is laced with streams and rail beds, many of which carry antique trains or have been converted to trails. These flows continue the formation of the Catskills, which aren’t mountains in the usual sense but rather are remnants of a carved plateau. That’s why so many of these green mounds have nearly uniform height.
Esopus River running past the Emerson. (Photo courtesy of the Emerson.)
The beautiful view from the bed of our duplex suite, as it appeared in Autumn. (Photo by Erik Baard.)
At its core, the Emerson is an ayurvedic retreat. “I thought I’d have to travel back to India to find a space like that,” said my travel companion, who hails from that nation.
Behind the imported, ancient Indian hand-carved gate at New York’s first Mobil Four-Star Spa you’ll discover ten treatment rooms adorned with antique fixtures and sculptures of deities and a striking raw stone sculpture centerpiece. Guests can stroll between these private sessions and steam showers, saunas, a fitness room, relaxation lounge, and outdoor hot tub. To take healthy wisdom home with you, there are Yoga classes too.
The Country Store with a silo converted into the world's largest kaleidoscope. (Photo courtesy of the Emerson.)
When you’re ready for more fanciful fare, dizzy yourself with the world’s largest kaleidoscope at the Country Store just yards away. But steady yourself on your feet for serious shopping — the Country Store is stocked with distinctive jewelry, gourmet delights, glassware, antiques, women’s apparel, furnishings, accessories, and more.
The Emerson's road sign, complete with glowing eyes. (Photo Courtesy of the Emerson.)
Ol' Red Eyes at the Catamount. (Photo by Erik Baard)
At the Emerson’s restaurants it’s as pleasurable to fill your belly as it is to fill your luggage and spirit. The glowing red mountain lion eyes of the Catamount’s imposing sign announce “carnivores welcome.” But vegetarians and vegans will find very satifying choices. I had the pleasure of feasting on a tofu and veggie stir fry while I enjoyed the company of Lisa Berger of Ulster County Tourism, who had sauteed Atlantic salmon.
Catamount stir fry. (Photo by Erik Baard.)
Catamount trout. (Photo by Erik Baard.)
Over at the Roxbury Motel, in Delaware County, each room is a unique and elegant work of art, reflecting a broad palate of periods and influences. If you’re a more playful sort, a sleepover can transport you to an ancient cave, the helm of a starship, or into a coconut cream pie one can imagine was whipped up by Mary Ann on “Gilligan’s Island.”
The Roxbury cheerfully greets the night. (Photo Courtesy of the Roxbury Motel.)
Mary Ann's coconut cream pie. (Photo Courtesy of the Roxbury Motel.)
A starship for the night. Uhura not included. (Photo Courtesy of the Roxbury Motel.)
The Noir Boudoir. (Photo Courtesy of the Roxbury Motel.)
Bride of Amadeus suite. (Photo Courtesy of the Roxbury Motel.)
The decor reflects the engaging and fun personalities of its delightful owners, Gregory Henderson and Joseph Massa. The two met through New York City’s theater life and so it’s no surprise that they brought stagecraft to create shared dreams into which they personally welcome each guest.
But this dynamic duo is in touch with the rooted tranquility all around them too. This past weekend they were moved to post this little video of the East Branch Delaware River running past the Roxbury Motel:
Just contemplate that snowy stream for now, until you too can head up for a spa retreat in the Catskills!
Diaries of the Greenest NYer 